That’s it- you have successfully set up a new toilet flange on a concrete floor. I removed the toilet in my 42 year-old house to replace the wax ring because the toilet was wobbly. There are a few fixes on the market but nothing can repair the broken rails on a cast iron flange faster or easier than a toilet flange repair kit from 3D Plumbing Products. Use an internal pipe cutter to cut the plastic pipe just below the existing broken flange and then replumb … The base of a toilet is held to the floor with two tee-bolts threaded up from the mounting ring through holes in the base of the toilet. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/260646603526?lpid=82, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. Here is how it ended up. The pipe on the flange fits inside the waste pipe under the slab. A leaky wax seal or a dripping water supply line can make the area around the toilet wet. Removing Flooring From Around a Toilet. Since I would eventually be drilling into the new cement, I let it cure for a week before laying the final cermic tile with thinset. How to Cut Cement Board Around a Toilet Flange. I used the kind with the tapered wood screw type head so that once all the way in, they seated nicely in the recessed holes in the flange and held it tight. Then pouring some self leveling quikrete around the pipe to fill that void, then removing the PVC pipe and reattach the new flange. Any advice on how not to crack the tile when drilling? If you notch the tile for the flange anchors prior to setting it, it makes things a bit easier as you then, don't have to try to drill holes through your tile. This made it easy to pull up the toilet, pull up a minimum of floor (about 8 "planks" total), and properly cut the floor so that it fits snugly around the toilet flange. Making sure the ABS was plumb, I cemented it into place with mortar mix. I removed the old flange, which had an extended 4 inch spigot. The ABS was cut with a mitre saw and dry fit into place. Sure beats digging up the slab and starting over! Also replaced toilet, when taking off old toilet there were bolts in the concrete and no flange. I can't believe I didn't take a close up. Also, I covered the lower portion of the drain pipe with duct tape so none of the clay fragments went into the sanitary sewer. I went to one today that I had the same problem with about six years ago Different owner then. I'm sure there are great instructables out there for laying tile and doing the final toilet installation for that matter. To know about toilet flange installation on tile, read the following section. The top section of the clay pipe had to go. The flange is NOT flush to the concrete floor, the builder seems to have put clear silicone in there.
10 years ago When it comes to a cast iron toilet flange repair, there is nothing worse. It is packaged in 4 in. I recently gutted our entire guest bathroom. If this is the case, each time the toilet flushes, drain water may seep out around the base of the toilet. The screws that attach the flange to the floor have rusted out and one is broken to a useless nub (circled in pic). When a toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace your toilet flange. Since you're raising the level of the floor, you'll likely need to raise the level of the flange that skirts the drain as well. why all the trouble ? Laying tile was incidental to the project, and I am by no means an expert, so I skimmed over that part. if that is concrete under it like mine, after the bolts rusted out ,i just used my rechargeable hammer drill from Home Depot (50 bucks) and concrete bit ,for drilling out the old rusted bolts and on into the concrete ,the further you drill the longer the bolt you need, use two 1/4 inch concrete bolts (Blue) with toilet washers and was done.total of 30 minutes. I removed the old flange, which had an extended 4 inch spigot. Lastly, place the wax ring on the flange so that you can later install the toilet on the flange. It didn't leak but definitely needed some attention. There are no anchors connecting the flange to the concrete slab. The pipe appears to have an ID of 3.5". Those brown spots above and below the drain pipe are the rusted remains of the closet bolts. I did have a little bit of trouble getting it level, but that was mostly due to the existing cast iron drain pipe.Still an excellent instructable. ... it is higher than the sub floor. There is concrete floor . the moment of truth:
Using the Tapcon drill bit, I drilled four holes down into the concrete to line up with the holes on the flange. The toilet has to be removed, and the flooring cut to go around the floor drain. Should I seal the space around the flange and the floor? Back filled with sand to about 4 or 5 inches below floor surface and then filled with concrete. Use Tapcon anchors or a similar type of masonry/concrete screws to fasten the toilet flange to the concrete slab. When your toilet flange is unlevel or not set to the right height, the toilet may wobble or even leak at the base. I had to complete a couple of toilet flange installs on a concrete floor. on Step 9. To replace the wax ring and reinstall the toilet would usually be about $100 - maybe $150 in large cities and high-cost areas - normally a minimum visit charge plus about $5 for the wax ring. There are typically several bolts that hold the toilet in place against the wax seal and flange so be sure to loosen those first and save the hardware for later if you intend to reuse it. You can see that I laid ceramic tile in the interim, so I was careful not to chip that. on Introduction. Here is what I ended up doing. You can see that there are holes to screw through the plastic flange holes, so in your case I'd get a good concrete bit and some tapcon screws. 14 years ago, To avoid cracking tile:
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